The Potential Benefits of Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning removes dead skin cells and peach fuzz from skin. Because of that, these are the following benefits you might expect.
Soft and Smooth Skin
Removing dead, dry skin cells on the top of your skin reveals fresher, newer skin cells underneath. After a dermaplaning treatment, you’ll notice something immediate — incredibly soft skin. “In the short-term, dermaplaning provides immediate smoothness and softness and a more radiant complexion,” says Garshick.
Bonus: Dermaplaning removes peach fuzz (technically called vellus hair, these are fine hairs on most of your body).[2] That creates a smooth canvas that allows makeup to glide on easily without looking caked, says Hollmig.
Improved Product Performance
A layer of dead cells sitting on top of your skin doesn’t just cause a dull, uneven complexion. It can also potentially act as a blockage of sorts, preventing active ingredients in other skincare products (like serums, creams, and lotions) from making their way into skin where they can do their job. Dermaplaning, since it removes these dead cells, removes that barrier.
“This exfoliation process allows skin-care products to penetrate more effectively, enhancing their benefits,” says Garshick. This is highlighted in research that found that dermaplaning enhanced the penetration of topical drugs applied to skin, though results differed among people in the study.[3]
Reduced Appearance of Lines and Acne Scars
Smooth, bright skin are among the quick, short-term results of dermaplaning for many. But what happens if you go in for the treatment regularly? “In the long-term, regular dermaplaning can lead to significant improvements in skin texture and tone,” says Garshick. “By consistently removing the top layer of dead skin cells, dermaplaning promotes cell turnover, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” she says. This process may also diminish the look of acne scarring, Garshick adds.
Hollmig points out that research on whether or not dermaplaning is effective in stimulating collagen growth that can address lines, wrinkles and acne scarring is lacking. He says he considers the procedure’s benefits more to include the aforementioned short-term smooth and soft look and feel (versus this type of lasting anti-wrinkle benefit).
Who Should Not Try Dermaplaning and Why
Remember that dermaplaning is a technique that removes the outermost layer of skin, and for that reason, it can cause temporary irritation and inflammation, says Hollmig. For that reason, he would not recommend it for someone who is currently experiencing eczema, psoriasis, severe acne, or rosacea.
Also avoid it if you have a cold sore. “If dermaplaning is performed over areas of skin infection — active acne lesions or herpes cold sores — infection can spread,” he says.
In addition, O’Connor points out that melasma can be a concern for dermaplaning. “Dermaplaning can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” she says. (Essentially, it could make melasma worse.) Dermaplaning may not be off the table for you, but you may need to take certain precautions beforehand, and this requires a conversation with a professional.
If you have underlying skin conditions, Garshick recommends speaking with a dermatologist first to see if dermaplaning is a treatment suitable for your skin — or if they recommend other types of exfoliating treatments.
How Much Does Dermaplaning Cost — and Who Does It?
Dermaplaning is offered at both dermatology offices, as well as med spas. It’s important to focus on finding a qualified, well-trained professional who is performing the treatment, says Hollmig (the procedure requires using a blade, after all). And using an unclean tool can spread infection, among other concerns, he says. Examples of qualified professionals include board-certified dermatologists, physician assistants (PAs), and licensed aestheticians.
The cost of dermaplaning will vary widely depending on the area you live and the provider you see, and prices range from about $75 to over $250 per treatment. The American Med Spa Association recommends getting dermaplaning every three to four weeks (to coincide with the normal skin cycle), so regular visits do get expensive.[4]
Some places will also offer packages of several treatments, offering cost savings. In addition, you may also be able to add dermaplaning onto a treatment or facial for around $50, depending on location.
At-home dermaplaning tools widely range in price, from $15 to $200, depending on the tool you buy. You can purchase these from retailers like Target, Sephora, and Dermstore.com. The benefit is that the blades are refillable and the tool reusable, so the price per treatment ends up being lower.
But there are drawbacks to dermaplaning at home, says O’Connor: “[These at-home tools] are not flat-edged blades, and if not used properly, they can cause tears in the skin, which can lead to irritation, cuts, and infection. This treatment is definitely best left to the professionals,” she says.
If you do opt to use an at-home tool, Hollmig says that dermaplaning more than once per week might cause unhelpful irritation.
The Takeaway
Dermaplaning is a minimally invasive skin-care treatment that involves using a blade to scrape the skin, removing the outermost layer, as well as peach fuzz. After dermaplaning, skin should feel smooth and soft and appear brighter. Though you can dermaplane at home, it’s likely safer and more effective to have a professional treatment. Folks with underlying skin conditions should talk to their dermatologist before dermaplaning.